Lizard Head Pass: Our Expert Visitor's Guide

As a frequent outdoors recreator, Lizard Head Pass holds a special place in my heart. Perched at 10,222 feet, it’s where I escape when I need a dose of pure Colorado magic. From the moment you crest the pass, the world feels bigger—framed by iconic peaks like the Wilsons and dotted with shimmering lakes like Trout Lake. It’s not just a place to pass through; it’s where summer wildflowers paint the meadows, crisp fall air glimmers with golden aspens, and winters bring tranquil Nordic trails. Lizard Head Pass is a gateway to my favorite adventures, a reminder that true beauty often lies in the quiet corners of the San Juans.

Lizard Head Pass: What Makes It So Special

The staggering panoramic beauty of Lizard Head Pass, encompassed on both sides by the San Juan National Forest, would be nothing without the incredible access into these wild areas. Lizard Head Wilderness, to the west, offers an entryway to some of the most iconic 14,000-foot peaks in the state - the Wilsons. Because of the wilderness designation, you will not encounter any motorized anything, including mountain bikers, which brings a level of quiet and serenity like no other.

This area has it all: lakes, waterfalls, peaks, wildflowers, clear mountain streams, epic mountain biking, developed as well as primitive camping, fishing, SUPing, Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, and plenty of opportunity for a summer cold plunge! This is Colorado's high country at its finest.

Parking lots and hiking or biking trails make it easy to plan any length of excursion you would like, and you will likely see kids and grandparents alike enjoying the well-maintained trails.

Where is Lizard Head Pass?

Lizard Head Pass is part of the San Juan Skyway, a 236-mile loop that includes the towns of Durango, Dolores, Ridgway, Ouray, Silverton and Telluride. It is just over ten miles south of Telluride, mid-way to the sleepy and charming town of Rico, as well as Dunton Hot Springs, the romantic and exclusive 1800s ghost town and rustic resort.

The History of Lizard Head Pass

Although it is difficult to envision it today, the pass is named for a prominent nearby peak that is said to look like the head of a lizard, the 12,995 ft (3,961 m) spire of Lizard Head. Towards the end of 1911, a large chunk of Lizard Head fell off, leaving the peak looking less lizard-like than before, but the name stuck. 

While the “Million Dollar HIghway,” the white knuckle drive between Ouray and Silverton, gets a lot of attention for its dramatic drop-offs and unforgiving icy corners, Lizard Head Pass has an immense amount of beauty and offers a much more relaxed drive. There is no shortage of pullouts for those Instagram-worthy shots of lakes, peaks, aspens, and bluebird skies.

Trout Lake provides train buffs the opportunity to see one of the best preserved trestles and the 55,000 gallon water tank that provided water to countless steam locomotives that lumbered between Ridgway and Rico. The Rio Grande Southern Railroad (RGS) ran from its construction in 1891 until 1951.  This narrow-gauge railroad ran from the towns of Durango to Ridgway, bringing tons of silver and gold ore out of the mountains, and supplies like beef, grown at the lower elevations, to the hard-working miners in the tiny mountain towns.

Visiting Lizard Head Pass Today 

The San Juan Skyway, called “The Most Beautiful Drive in America,” is a spectacular route through the San Juan, Uncompahgre, Wilson and Sneffels Mountain Ranges. This 236-mile route follows state-maintained highways. It winds for 236 miles through the heart of 5 million acres on the San Juan and Uncompahgre National Forests offering views of spectacular, rugged, and primitive country as well as cultural and historical sites. The entire loop takes you through Durango, Silverton, Ouray, Ridgway, Telluride, Ophir, Rico, Dolores, Cortez, and Mancos and is a great route for a motorcycle tour or road biking for parts of it.

If you’re coming from Telluride, you will pass by a few of the bedroom communities, like Ophir, Ames, and San Bernardo, before arriving at Trout Lake, the first major landmark. Trout Lake offers anglers a few different types of trout, including brook, rainbow and cutthroat. The lake is often dotted with canoers, kayakers, and SUPers on summer days, which is a great way to enjoy the views. 

Dispersed camping is allowed on public lands at Priest Lake, and at the east side of Lizard Head Pass. The developed Forest Service Matterhorn Campground is located just north of Trout Lake.

When to Visit Lizard Head Pass

Summer and Fall are, without a doubt, the times you want to visit this area. The roads are clear of snow and ice, and while summer offers wildflower-studded meadows and green aspen and spruce-fir forests, fall is a dazzling display of glittering gold aspens, oftentimes offset by fresh snow on the peaks.

Winter is a must if you love Nordic skiing, both traditional and skate-skiing, and snowshoeing, and a keen eye may pick out mind-boggling tracks of backcountry skiers in the faces and bowls of the nearby mountain peaks.

Spring? With weather being as fickle as it is then and off-highway access limited, it’s a better idea to wait a few weeks for the gloriousness of the summer season.

What You'll See When You Arrive at Lizard Head Pass

Lizard Head Pass is a feast for the eyes! Trout Lake and its surrounding 13,000-foot peaks dominate the landscape upon arrival from Telluride. As you pass the lake, wildflower-dotted meadows dominate the pass, with healthy spruce-fir and ascend forests that have not yet been hit by the devastating beetle kill you see in other parts of the state.

RVs and Airstreams fill camping spots at the pass. There are a few major mountain groupings from north to south: The Yellow Mountain complex, with Yellow Mountain, Pilot Knob, Golden Horn, and Vermillion Peaks are the first on your left. San Miguel and Sheep Mountain provide the backdrop to the campers at the east, while Blackface mirrors it on the west side of the highway.

As you crest the pass and descend, the iconic and stunning Lizard Head, Gladstone, Mount Wilson, Wilson Peak, and El Diente all come into view on your right. The last three are 14,000-foot peaks on many people’s bucket lists for summer hikes or winter skis.

The Dolores River emerges on your left as you descend the pass to the south, as you have just passed its headwaters.

Staying Safe & Fitting In While Visiting Lizard Head Pass

The most apparent aspect of staying safe at Lizard Head Pass is mitigating the effects of high altitude. At over two miles above sea level, the decrease in atmospheric pressure and available oxygen can be felt almost immediately by shortness of breath - you will find yourself completely winded on a hike uphill or a short jog. 

Staying hydrated is a constant struggle, even when you are consuming more water than you normally do. Keep water and electrolytes with you and take small, frequent sips to try and stay ahead of the curve. The sweat on your skin can evaporate so quickly you won’t know you’re losing liquids. Keeping an eye on the color of your urine is the easiest way to monitor how hydrated, or more likely, how dehydrated you are becoming. Clear or light-colored urine is the goal. Do yourself a favor and skip the alcohol!

Embrace the carbohydrates! This is your body’s primary energy source, so throw carb-rich snacks in your day pack if you’re headed out for a walk or a hike.

The timing of your excursions to this altitude can make a big difference too. A hike or cross-country ski at Lizard Head may be best towards the end of your visit to this area, especially if you have been staying at lower elevations for much of your trip. Your body will have acclimatized some before coming up even higher.

While true altitude sickness is less common than you would think, it’s important to know the symptoms: headache, nausea, and dizziness. It pretty much feels like the worst hangover you’ve ever had! The only cure is to increase your oxygen which can mean simply going to a lower elevation or getting your hands on an oxygen machine, which you can have delivered to your lodging by a quick google search for the area where you are staying.

In summer, afternoon electrical storms can pose a more immediate risk, especially if you find yourself above treeline when weather moves in. Getting an early start is always advisable, and paying attention to building clouds and rumbles of thunder can be a good indicator of when it’s time to start heading back to your vehicle if you are on a hike. Weather can change surprisingly fast at 10,000 feet - if you have kids in tow you will need even more time if you have to hustle down the trail for shelter in the trees.

Winter brings the threat of avalanches if you are backcountry skiing; please use the CAIC (Colorado Avalanche Information Center) website before planning your day trip. On occasion, the pass can close after a particularly heavy snowfall for avalanche control work, usually for just a few hours, but the road is plowed regularly as it is a main artery for drivers coming up from the South to the Telluride area.

With the thin, dry air, hypothermia is a threat at any time of year, even the hottest days of the summer. A drop in air temperature or a cold rain shower in July can leave you surprisingly cold in just a few moments. Always bring a rain jacket and a few layers of clothing. If you find yourself getting chilled, head back to your vehicle and keep moving! Generating body heat through movement is the best way to get warm again.

The sun is deceptively strong at this altitude, and sunburns can happen in minutes! Apply sunscreen (and chapstick!) and reapply often - every hour to hour and a half. Nothing can ruin a good vacation faster than burned and tender skin. 

Worried about wildlife? That’s understandable, yet you’re more likely to see marmots than bears while exploring this area. Hikers and bikers, and people with dogs all tend to keep the wary wildlife far from trails.

Lizard Head Pass Weather & Climate

The high-altitude realm of Southwest Colorado is characterized by loads of sunny days and a fairly mild but arid climate. On average, winters see upwards of 300 inches of snowfall interspersed with clear days and blue skies.

“Spring” is a bit of a misnomer, as we tend to transition from winter to summer with many push-pull weather patterns. As snow and ice melt, the “mud season” rears its grimy head, but in general, trees are leafing out by mid to end of May, and the summer rolls in with long, sun-drenched days, some afternoon rain in July and August, then drying out for the golden days of fall.

The most predictable trait of this climate is how arid you may find it. Our relative humidity stays low throughout the seasons, which also means clear days and views for miles.

Getting To & Around Lizard Head Pass

Unlike many of the other high-altitude passes in Colorado, Lizard Head Pass is paved and well-constructed for a mellow driving tour. Taking it slow in winter is always advisable, and no matter the season, you may find your head on a swivel trying to take in the views. There are several parking areas along the way that allow you to pause and stretch your legs, snap a few photos, and have a tailgate picnic! Keep in mind that many of the cars on the road are commuters just trying to get to work on time!

High clearance or four-wheel drive is not necessary for much of the pass area, with the exception of the Hope Lake access road and nearby Alta Lakes and Ophir Pass roads. The Hope Lake and Alta Lakes roads are much more pleasant if you have higher clearance, and you definitely need very high clearance, four-wheel drive, and experience navigating narrow and dangerous off-roading for the Ophir Pass route.

Our Favorite Tours & Excursions Near Lizard Head Pass

Hope Lake is one of the most popular trails for a reason: it’s relatively short, it takes you through streams, forests, waterfalls and wildflowers, and it deposits you at a high alpine gorgeous blue lake with plenty of cold plunge and photo opportunities. At 6 miles round trip, it’s long enough for a half-day hike but short enough to take friends and family of all ages, provided you have some fun, sugary snacks !Or, for a guided experience through Telluride’s scenic hiking trails, check out our Half-Day Hiking Tour.

The Cross Mountain Trail is another stunner that can be an out-and-back to see the Wilsons dominating the background or a longer 10-mile loop over Black Face with a car drop at the Lizard Head Pass parking lot. Either option takes you near the base of Lizard Head, the peak, and it’s hard to describe its stunning beauty when you’re that close. In the winter, this trail becomes a serene haven for snowshoeing—why not enjoy a Private Guided Snowshoe Tour to make the most of these snowy forests?

High Camp Hut is a great option for those seeking an off-grid backcountry lodge. High Camp Hut is a two-story backcountry hut nestled into 320 acres of privately held land sitting in 2 million acres of San Juan National Forest. The hut sits at 11,000 feet above sea level in the San Juan National Forest, with views of Lizardhead, the Wilsons, and Sheep Mountain. Access to the Hut is a short 2.5-mile hike, ski, jog, or bike from Hwy 145, depending on the season. Summer retreats are offered for those seeing a more immersive experience connecting to others. For more adventurous pursuits, consider booking a Guided Backcountry Ski Touring Experience.

For water lovers, Trout Lake offers an idyllic setting to paddle across crystal-clear waters. Join us on an Alpine Lake Stand-Up Paddleboard Tour, where you can enjoy the tranquility of this high-altitude lake while soaking in the surrounding mountain vistas. Soak in the blissful days of summer at Trout Lake. 

The historic Galloping Goose railroad bed, which winds through the area, is a perfect venue for Nordic skiing in winter and e-biking in summer and fall. Its gentle grade and breathtaking views make it an inviting route for all skill levels. If you’re looking to explore the region on two wheels, consider a Guided Bike Tour for the best trails and tips from a local guide.

The Nordic trails at Priest and Trout Lake are impeccably groomed by the Telluride Nordic Association. Parking is at the Matterhorn Forest Service lot, and there are separate tracks for both Nordic and skate-skiing options.

Lizard Head Pass is more than a scenic waypoint on the San Juan Skyway—it’s a place where nature’s grandeur takes center stage and every season offers its own treasures. Whether you’re here for a lazy afternoon by Trout Lake, a challenging hike to Hope Lake, or just to soak in the iconic mountain views, the pass delivers a quintessential Colorado experience. For those of us lucky enough to live nearby, it’s a constant reminder of why we call this rugged, breathtaking region home. And for visitors, it’s a chance to step into our world and take a piece of its magic with you.