The San Juan Mountains: Our Expert Visitor's Guide

How do you even begin to define and describe the San Juan Mountains? For those of us that call this corner of the state home, there are as many reasons to love them as there are jagged peaks. I was immediately captivated when I drove here 31 years ago, and my awe has only increased over time. Every season has something different to offer, and it truly is difficult to pick your favorite time of year here. The climate, beauty, and stats speak for themselves, but there is something else to them, something special.. You will just have to visit and explore to see for yourself!

The San Juan Mountains: What Makes It So Special

It’s difficult to put into words what is so captivating about the San Juans. Yes, the sheer beauty is staggering at times no matter what season you are in. The old mining towns, with colorful Victorian houses and classic flower-adorned main streets, are captivating. The explosion of wildflowers at the height of summer is like no other. Entire mountains of gold aspens in October are almost blinding in their brilliance. Hot springs abound in Ouray, for soaking away your tired legs. But beyond the obvious beauty, the mountains here have a magical quality.

The San Juans are home to some historic and noteworthy locations and routes:

Chicago Basin in the Weminuche Wilderness for backpacking and peak-bagging.

Ice Lake Basin near Silverton.

Blue Lakes outside of Ridgway.

The southern terminus of the Colorado Trail.

The spectacular San Juan Skyway.

The four-wheel drive Alpine Loop.

There is truly something for everyone here! It doesn't take long to understand why some people call these mountains their favorites.

Where Are The San Juan Mountains?

The San Juan Mountains, named after the river that drains the western slope of this stunning range, are at the southern terminus of the Rocky Mountains in southwest Colorado and northern New Mexico. These volcanic peaks are part of the 1.8 million acres of the San Juan National Forest, in thirteen Colorado counties. The headwaters of the mighty Rio Grande River originate here, draining the winter snowpack come spring and summer.

Durango is on the Southern boundary, and Ouray on the northern with Wolf Creek Pass hemming in on the east. Mountains give way to desert in the west. The mountain range is made up of the Uncompahgre, Rio Grande, Carson, and the San Juan National Forests. Within the San Juan National Forest, there are three designated Wilderness areas including, Weminuche Wilderness, Lizard Head Wilderness, and South San Juan Wilderness.

The History of The San Juan Mountains

In a nutshell, the geological history of the San Juans is: tectonic collision - volcanic eruptions - glacial carving. When two continental plates collided, the resulting volcanoes and, later, glaciers, created some of the highest and most jagged peaks, as well as some of the most stunning high alpine basins, in the continental United States. Home to twenty-eight peaks above 9,000 feet and thirteen above 14,000 feet, this mountain range is like no other in terms of dramatic and rugged beauty. High alpine lakes and ponds bejewel the basins, with blue waters that appear tropical in the summer sun.

In terms of human history, the nutshell looks more like Native Americans - miners and ranchers - hippie skiers - realtors. The nomadic Utes lived and roamed in these mountains for more than 500 years, only to be driven out by the miners, thirsty for gold and silver veins left behind by the geologic forces that created the peaks. The Ute Indian Museum in Montrose is a worthy stop to learn more about the oldest Colorado residents and their highly developed society. Spaniards trod the paths laid down by the proud Utes, and later expanded upon by miners, road and railroad builders. Mining relics are littered throughout the valleys, sometimes in impossible locations at extremely high elevations; mining roads provide incredible access to the upper basins of the San Juans, whether by vehicle, bike, or on foot.

Skiers and other outdoor enthusiasts weren’t far behind, and in the early 70s began buying up mining claims in the dusty towns, with realtors later transforming main streets into dining and shopping meccas. Just north of Durango is Purgatory Ski Resort, Silverton Mountain Ski Area, and tiny Kendall Mountain Ski Area. Ouray has a town rope in town for short laps, and Telluride Ski Area attracts skiers and snowboarders from all over the world. Wolf Creek Ski Area, on the eastern edge of the San Juans, is a draw for folks staying in Pagosa and Durango. Even remote Lake City has a town ski hill for winter enthusiasts who tire of ice fishing on Lake San Cristobal!

When to Visit The San Juan Mountains

There are essentially three main seasons here: Summer, Fall, and Winter. Spring is much harder to define, as you experience such a push-pull with winter and summer conditions, and the towns quiet down in between ski season and true summer.

Summer kicks off around Memorial Day each year, although it is not uncommon to experience some snow at the higher elevations the first couple of weeks of June! Depending on the snowpack from the winter, white peaks can linger into July, right when the wildflowers start exploding with color in the alpine tundra.

Hiking or backpacking along streams and waterfalls to crystalline blue lakes, summiting the myriad 12-14,000 foot peaks, mountain biking the network of trails… these are probably the top outdoor activities the San Juans have to offer.

Jeepers and gravel bikers crawl along well maintained mining roads, which often lead you to ghost towns with stunning views for miles.

If outdoor pursuits is not your thing, there is plenty to do in the old mining towns, with festivals, live music, hot springs, train rides, shopping, and dining for everyone.

When the summer traffic starts to slow as kids head back to school, “Gold Season” emerges, with the shorter, crisper nights, and entire mountainsides covered in yellow aspens. Fall is a great time to visit the San Juans, as you can see some lower prices and fewer families, but with just as much beauty as the middle of the summer.

After a brief lull in November, the flakes start to fall for Winter Season, and skiing, snowboarding, snowmobiling, and ice skating take over. Yes, nights can be cold, but with our desert climate, days often warm up quickly, especially if you are in the sun. 

My advice is to visit in all the seasons! As I said before, it really is hard to pick a favorite. The beauty changes throughout the year, but it’s a rare day you don’t see something that takes your breath away.

What You'll See When You Arrive in The San Juan Mountains

Peaks, peaks, and more peaks! Also: lakes, rivers, and waterfalls! Do yourself a favor and add the Peakfinder app to your smartphone to identify what you are seeing along the jagged skyline. It can be a little overwhelming to see so many in all directions, especially if you are on a driving tour in between some of the mountain towns.

The charm of the Telluride, Ouray, and Silverton main streets lures most travelers out of their cars, for a stroll, an outdoor lunch, and a souvenir. Lush and vibrant hanging baskets of flowers dot the streets, and the long summer days end in a slow fade with pink alpenglow lighting up the peaks that frame your field of vision. 

Durango offers its famed Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, which winds along the Animas River, and is a must for train buffs. You can hear its whistle as it arrives and departs from Durango and Silverton.

Did we mention endless blue skies? Fields of wildflowers? Rainbows after summer showers? Good chance you will see all this and more on your visit.

Staying Safe & Fitting In While Visiting The San Juan Mountains

The most noticeable aspect of staying safe in the lofty San Juans is mitigating the effects of high altitude. At over two miles above sea level, the decrease in atmospheric pressure and available oxygen can be felt almost immediately by shortness of breath - you will find yourself completely winded on a set of stairs or a brisk walk on what appears to be a level sidewalk.

Staying hydrated is a constant struggle, even when you are consuming more water than you normally do. While it’s tempting to cozy up with a craft beer (or three!) or the infamous shotski, keeping your alcohol consumption low, especially at the start of your visit, can keep the dreaded high-altitude hangover away. Water, water, water, is the name of the game, as it is a constant battle to stay hydrated up here! The color of your urine is the easiest way to keep an eye on whether you need another beer or some electrolytes.

The timing of your excursions to this altitude can make a big difference too. Staying a little lower at the start of your trip can help you acclimate, and saving the higher elevations excursions for the middle and end of your trip can make for a more enjoyable time.

While true altitude sickness is less common than you would think, it’s important to know the symptoms: headache, nausea, and dizziness. It pretty much feels like the worst hangover you’ve ever had! The only cure is to increase your oxygen which can mean simply going to a lower elevation or getting your hands on an oxygen machine, which you can have delivered to your lodging by a quick google search for the area where you are staying.

In summer, afternoon electrical storms can pose a more immediate risk, especially if you find yourself above treeline when weather moves in. Getting an early start is always advisable, and paying attention to building clouds and rumbles of thunder can be a good indicator of when it’s time to start heading back to your vehicle if you are on a hike, or when to turn your jeep around.. Weather can change surprisingly fast at 10,000 feet.

With the thin, dry air, hypothermia is a threat at any time of year, even on the hottest days of summer. A drop in air temperature or a cold rain shower in July can leave you surprisingly cold in just a few moments. Always bring a rain jacket and a few layers of clothing if you are venturing out on an excursion. If you find yourself getting chilled, head back to your vehicle and keep moving! Generating body heat through movement is the best way to get warm again.

The sun is deceptively strong at this altitude, and sunburns can happen in minutes! Apply sunscreen (and chapstick!) and reapply often, every hour to hour and a half. Nothing can ruin a good vacation faster than burned and tender skin. 

Road awareness is less talked about, but keeping your eyes on the road is harder to do when everywhere you look is insanely beautiful. Steep drop-offs are common, especially along the famed Million Dollar Highway. Keep an eye on the cars behind you as well - for those of us that live and work here, it is a courtesy to the locals to recognize when to pull over and let people pass you, as they may be on their way to work. Watching out for wildlife on the road is crucial as well. Deer, elk, the occasional moose, big-horned sheep, and even a black bear may make an appearance at the wrong time. Flashing your headlights three times at oncoming traffic alerts other drivers to wildlife on or near the roadway.

The San Juan Mountains Weather & Climate

The high-altitude realm of the San Juans is characterized by loads of sunny days and a fairly mild but arid climate. Winters see upwards of 300 inches of snowfall in the high alpine, on average, interspersed with clear days and blue skies.

“Spring” is a bit of a misnomer, as we tend to transition from winter to summer with a lot of push-pull weather patterns. As snow and ice melt, the “mud season” rears its grimy head, but in general, trees are leafed out in the lower elevations in late April, and mid to end of May higher up. “Came for the winters, stayed for the summers,” is a popular and fairly accurate quote for many residents. Summer rolls in with long, sun-drenched days, some “monsoonal” afternoon rain and hail in July and August, then drying out for the golden days of fall.

The most predictable trait of this climate is how arid you may find it. Our relative humidity stays low throughout the seasons, which also means clear days and views for miles.

Getting To & Around The San Juan Mountains

There are a few main avenues for accessing these mountains. While we are 6-7 hours from both Denver and Salt Lake City by car, you are definitely going to want a vehicle if you are visiting in the Summer and Fall. Compare cost and convenience at the most popular Durango, Montrose, and Grand Junction Airports, to determine what is best for your flight pattern and rental car options.

Durango tends to be the airport of choice for Durango and Silverton, Montrose and Grand Junction for Ridgway, Ouray, and Telluride, but it really depends on your itinerary and budget. Many choose to fly into the larger cities and see more of the state on their drive here, but if you spend a little more and can utilize one of these three airports, you can spend more time here, on excursions, and less time in your vehicle.

The Telluride Airport brings you right into the heart of things, but it is not for the faint of heart! Landing at an elevation of just over 9000’, onto a short runway on a mesa, you are in the Town of Telluride or Mountain Village within 15 minutes. 

Montrose Regional Airport is about 90 minutes door-to-door for most Telluride and Mountain Village locations. If you are renting a car here, you have numerous options for groceries if you want to save a little money and have a wider selection of items than the grocers in Telluride.

Grand Junction Regional Airport, around two and a half hours away from Telluride, tends to have slightly better rates than Montrose, for both flights and car rentals, but the extra drive time can be a deterrent, especially if you have a morning departure. There are several motels within a mile of that airport for easy overnights.

Cortez Municipal Airport offers smaller flights and can be an option when flying through Phoenix.

Durango-La Plata County Airport is the primary regional airport for Southwest Colorado, northwest New Mexico, and the entire Four Corners region. Durango residents, as well as Silverton (90 minutes away) rely on this, similar to Montrose, as you have numerous grocery and rental car options.

Our Favorite Tours & Excursions In The San Juan Mountains

There are endless activities you can do in the San Juan Mountains. Here are the top 5 activities to enjoy during the summer months:

1. Scenic Jeep Tours 

Where: Telluride, Ouray, Silverton, and Durango
Why It’s a Must: Climb to jaw-dropping alpine passes like Imogene, Engineer, or Ophir, where 360° views, wildflowers, and mining ruins await. Professional guides navigate the rugged terrain, allowing you to sit back, take photos, and soak in the grandeur of the high San Juans.
Best For: Photographers, history buffs, families, and adventure seekers.

2. Via Ferrata Adventures

Where: Telluride and Ouray
Why It’s a Must: Clip in and traverse sheer rock walls on iron rungs with a guide. The Telluride Via Ferrata hugs a cliff 600 feet above the valley, offering heart-pounding thrills and unmatched views of Bridal Veil Falls.
Best For: Thrill-seekers with a moderate fitness level.

3. Mesa Verde National Park Tours

Where: Near Durango
Why It’s a Must: Walk through the remarkable cliff dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloans on a guided tour. Learn the deep cultural history of Cliff Palace, Spruce Tree House, and more with an expert who brings the ruins to life.
Best For: History lovers and families.

4. Guided Rafting Trips on the Animas River

Where: Durango
Why It’s a Must: From splashy family floats to thrilling whitewater, the Animas River offers fun for all levels. Enjoy half-day or full-day adventures with professional guides.
Best For: Groups, families, and outdoor enthusiasts.

5. Alpine Hiking & Trekking Tours

Where: Telluride, Silverton, Ouray
Why It’s a Must: Join a local guide to explore high-country trails like Ice Lake Basin, Blue Lakes, or Chicago Basin. Wildflowers, waterfalls, and wildlife abound.
Best For: Active travelers and photographers.

As the land transforms into a snowy wonderland, here are the top 5 winter adventures:

1. Snowmobile Tours

Where: Telluride, Silverton, Durango
Why It’s a Must: Explore deep powder, frozen alpine lakes, and remote backcountry terrain with ease. Guided snowmobile tours take you to places you can’t reach on foot—like Molas Pass, Lizard Head, or Cascade Canyon—with breathtaking views and adrenaline-pumping fun.
Best For: Adventure seekers, groups, and thrill-lovers.

2. Backcountry Skiing or Splitboarding

Where: Telluride, Silverton, and Red Mountain Pass
Why It’s a Must: Earn your turns with a guide in some of the best untouched powder in Colorado. The San Juans are known for steep chutes, open glades, and epic descents. Professional guides provide avalanche gear, route selection, and local knowledge.
Best For: Experienced skiers and snowboarders looking for big-mountain terrain.

3. Hot Springs Soaking

Where: Ouray and Durango (Trimble)
Why It’s a Must: After a day in the snow, soak in steaming natural mineral springs surrounded by snowy peaks. Many springs offer spa treatments, views, and private tubs—ideal for a relaxing winter wind-down.
Best For: Couples, families, and relaxation-seekers.

4. Sleigh Rides & Winter Picnics

Where: Telluride
Why It’s a Must: Take a horse-drawn sleigh ride through a snowy alpine meadow, followed by a gourmet picnic or campfire cocoa. It's a magical winter experience straight from a snow globe.
Best For: Romantic outings, families, and holiday magic.

5. Guided Snowshoe or Nordic Ski Tours

Where: Durango, Telluride, Silverton
Why It’s a Must: Explore peaceful, snowy forests and mountain trails with a guide who shares local ecology, wildlife, and winter survival tips. Routes vary from beginner to advanced.
Best For: Nature lovers and those looking for low-impact winter adventures.